What is ancient madder, and why choose it for your ties?

Ancient madder silk has a matte finish, a chalky hand and deep, muted colors. Here's where it comes from and why it's worth knowing before our new collection arrives.

Pick up an ancient madder tie and the first thing you notice isn't the pattern. It's the feel. Where most silk ties are slick and shiny, madder silk is soft, dry and almost powdery, closer to fine suede than satin. Menswear people call it a "chalk hand," and once you've felt it, you'll recognize it anywhere.

With our new ancient madder ties arriving Fall 2026, we wanted to share what makes this fabric special.

Where the name comes from

"Madder" is the common name for Rubia tinctorum, a plant whose roots have produced red dye for thousands of years. Fabric dyed with madder has turned up in ancient Egypt, and the dye colored everything from Roman textiles to British military coats. That long history is the "ancient" part of the name.

In 1869, chemists learned to synthesize alizarin, the main coloring compound in madder root. That made madder-style colors affordable for commercial printers. By the late Victorian era, madder-printed paisley silks had become a staple of English neckwear and scarves.

Today, "ancient madder" describes a printing style and finish more than a plant. Most modern madder ties are colored with synthesized dyes rather than the root itself. What makes them madder is the process, the silk and the look.

Why it feels the way it does

The signature texture comes from the silk itself. Madder designs are traditionally printed on gum twill. The silk is boiled to strip its natural gum, dyed, then bathed in a new gum solution. That last step gives the fabric its heft, its soft hand and its dusty, matte surface.

The printing order matters too. Traditionally, the silk is dyed a deep base color, often indigo, and each additional color is printed over it. Turn an untipped madder tie over and you'll often see a bluish back. It's one of the easiest ways to spot the real thing.

The colors and patterns

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Because every color is laid over a dark base, madder palettes are rich and muted rather than bright. Think:

• Claret and brick red

• Bottle and jade green

• Chocolate and tobacco brown

• Ink and slate blue

• Mustard and ochre

The classic motifs are paisleys and small geometrics. Since the 1930s, paisley madder ties have been a fixture of Ivy League style, a relaxed alternative to the regimental stripe. However, our collection will feature a variety of hand-illustrated geometric patterns.

Why we chose madder for this handmade Italian tie collection

We wanted a tie that looks better the more casually you wear it. Our madder silks are printed in England in Macclesfield, one of the best-known places for ancient madder and silk printing. The ties are then made entirely by hand by artisans in Italy.

Our handmade Italian ancient madder tie collection launches in November 2026.

Follow along on Instagram to see every design first.